When the Dress Code has a Sinister Twist
thoughts on Cannes new red carpet edict; as well as the place of fashion and books amidst the rise of global conservatism
If you’re here, you know I have * opinions* about Fashion. So I absolutely exploded when I saw two days ago that Cannes was restricting their dress code (for women only, of course, because when other than sumptuary laws, which are about classism anyway, have there ever been laws restricting men’s wardrobes?) to prohibit “No Naked Dresses or "voluminous outfits, in particular those with a large train," that block the way for other guests and complicate theatre seating are also no longer permitted, per Reuters. Which, I guess I understand because most people - myself included forget that when one wears a big tulle gown, you then have to sit in a VERY TINY chair for dinner or, in the case of the festival, a tiny seat in a theater. I don’t really care about the nudity thing, because again, that’s a personal choice. But these two extreme polar opposites, combine into the one rule itself that makes me deeply… uneasy.
Do you remember in high school or middle school the amount of times you were dress coded? I did. And it is part of the complex system that teaches young girls early to feel shame about their bodies. Which are entirely natural, as they’ve been one half of the human race since homo sapiens first came on the scene, by the way. I was once dress coded (and man the shame I felt then still makes an uncomfortable swooping sensation in my stomach to this day. I was twelve then.) in 7th grade for wearing this lacy abercrombie camisole that had a thick enough strap, but shifted enough to hint at my bra strap. Never mind I didn’t even have breasts then. But Do any millennials remember those and the hollister and abercrombie slogan tees (my personal favorite said Blah Blah Blah on a pink t-shirt. very gemini coded, lol.) ? If you do, do you also remember the boys slogan tees from one of those mall skate shops (maybe it was PacSun, maybe not, but if someone remembers please tell me) which had like cartoons in the style of the office opening titles, that I only realized years later were extremely graphic sexual innuendos? Not one of them got dress coded as far as I can remember.
But I hope you see the parallel i’m drawing here.
To me, what this and the Cannes dress code are both pointing to is a glaring neon sign announcing a global return to conservatism. If you’re paying attention you can see where this has alarmingly come into play across many facets of our culture, particularly under the current administration. Besides that, Cannes has always been a red carpet that has pushed boundaries, going as far back as the 60s and 70s. It seems a shame to introduce this now, particularly as a way to seemingly detract headlines from the actual films that are being shown this year. And generally, I hate to call out members of the Fashion media that I respect - but the NYT Styles take by Vanessa Friedman (Headline: No Naked Dressing? How Will Stars Make News?A new dress code at the Cannes Film Festival has set off a tempest in tulle.) I found this a lazy take, particularly from someone who so regularly has smart and intellectual takes on fashion. The article itself tends to focus on the backlash to the new policy, and now everyone is discussing nudity on the carpet. But no one is addressing the voluminous gowns either. The only line I really appreciated from her article was “One person’s vulgarity can be another person’s celebration, and who is to say who gets to police whose body?” Well Fascists, and conservatives like to do that.
Did you know the Cannes film festival is inherently anti-fascist? It was founded in 1939 because filmmakers didn’t like that Hitler and Mussolini had gained control over the Venice Film Festival. Cannes didn’t properly open until 1946 post war - but as a result of these ideas it’s always been pushing the boundaries. And the red carpet has always done that. Ergo, this whole edict is just completely at odds of the spirit of the festival, and it pisses me off. I was at dinner last night and a designer friend (hi Jonathan!) pointed out one of his favorite fashion history looks was Madonna with the Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra in 1991. I’d agree. That’s a moment that even non fashion lovers can recall.
In the past, on the Cannes red carpet, women have only been allowed to wear heels - no flats - which Kristen Stewart has infamously run afoul of. Now, they’ve changed it to only say “No Sneakers", which, Okay. But, in light of these new rules, and the fact that in tandem, you are now allowed to wear flat shoes or sandals, should also be a worrisome trend. High Heels are complicated, of course, but they tend to represent femininity at its peak. Literally, becuase although I am 5’7” and love a high heel I cannot tell you how many man have either unmatched me on a dating app or told me they don’t like when I’m taller than them. It’s projected insecurity, but it still creates a vacuum that these very restrictive ideas can pile onto each other.
Yesterday, an indie author I quite admire posted about the disillusion she’s feeling between the emotional gulf of trying to market her new novel compared with the state of the world. I think what I would actually say is, despite how valid that is. This IS the time. There is resistance in our art. Whether it is books, or the fashion we see on a red carpet at what is now recognized as one of the premiere film festivals in the world.
It’s hard to care sometimes. Or to self regulate to understand where you should direct your attention. When the president is accepting a $400 Million Bribe (also why has no one brought up that that plane is bugged within an inch of its life there’s probably microphone feedback?) and habeas corpus - which guarantees right to trial - is in talks to being suspended, and people are disappearing off the streets, it’s really fucking hard to care about what some celebrity wears on the red carpet across the Atlantic. But they are all related, I promise you.
Policing women’s bodies is not new - but it’s part of a rising trend of global conservatism right now. It’s behind the last few years of “Quiet Luxury", it’s even probably behind that NYMAG article about “West Village Girls" and the homogenization of culture. Because fashion is art is creativity is resistance, and those things are LOUD. By nature, everyone dressing conservative and the same is not resistance. Why do you think in all those dystopian movies all people have tame, unsexy outfits? I’m thinking of Divergent, of Gattaca, of The Giver, of The Handmaids Tale, of Blade Runner. But, it’s the slippery slope - and I see a lot of these trends pushed by AI, because if AI does the thinking for you, then there is no creativity, no variation of thought, the groupthink is in full effect. But it also means there is no resistance.
The point here, is wear whatever you fucking want. That’s what any fashion person will tell you. Sure there are trends, etc, but true fashion comes from creativity. And forcing everyone to dress the same, with an idea of what is correct, is just one more step towards the dystopia that the Handmaid’s tale in particular depicts. 1984 is about absolute conformity, continuous surveillance, and organized hatred - sound familiar?(I’d love to take credit for that amazing sentence, but I stole it from the 1984 movie trailer) The reason All Quiet on the Western Front which I remember reading in both eight grade and in high school, is so important is becuase it shows the differing, unpopular opinion. Not the propaganda that is all shiny and sanitized. This is the reason they’re coming for book bans, and a conservative movement is sweeping Hollywood too.
It’s interesting to see who is following the new dress code and changing last minute (a headache for stylists and PRs and talent, since this has all been decided months ago), and who is saying fuck it anyway. For now, it’s a thing to watch. To resist. I think about the outfits I’ve worn in the last few months (a jumpsuit with a pinging neckline, a full skirted tulle gown, and sequined gown for tomorrow that is delicate but sexy) and wonder where my style fits on that spectrum. Cynically, I don’t know that i’ve seen much difference since the Festival du Cannes made the announcement on Monday, and wonder if that was actually the stunt. I don’t think it is - but again, a place to watch.
but because I don’t have anywhere else to end this, i’ll just end it with this scene because I FEEL LIKE IT OKAY
XOXO,
Casey