Met Gala 2025
Review of Superfine: Tailoring Black Style & reflections on the Gala red carpet and it's theme "tailored for you"
If anyone was waiting for a met gala post from me, well here it is five days later when the news cycle has moved on to the new pope, amongst other things. I actually get really overwhelmed with all of the coverage coming out the day after and as the red carpet and after parties are happening. I actually like giving it a few days to percolate, to talk to other friends and see what they loved and hated, not just armchair experts for example, and to really look a but more into what some of the inspirations were behind the look. Plus, I knew I was going to get the private tour of the exhibition yesterday, and wanted to be able to juxtapose both of those. SO GUESS WHAT DEAR DUAL NATURE FRIENDS???? YOU GET BOTH!!! Thoughts on exhibition below, followed by red carpet thoughts after.
SUPERFINE: TAILORING BLACK STYLE
I was super excited to see the exhibit - as I always am - but I wanted to see how this one was handled by an institution the size of the Met. The first costume exhibit I ever saw was summer of 2008 which was the super hero one, and I remember feeling complete awe of the idea that Fashion could potentially belong in a museum. I’ve never missed on since.
The exhibition was inspired in part by the Late, Great King of Black Dandyism: Andre Leon Talley. He was creative director, then editor-at-large at vogue for a long time (I remember sorting mail for him as an intern in 2011) and his influence on menswear will have long lasting impact. Yesterday as we went through the tour, Co-curator Monica Miller (who I wish had talked more because she sounds super smart and knowledgeable) talked about how the exhibition was separated into twelve different sections of dandyism. She also shared how the starting point for the exhibition is the difference between being fashioned (by force) versus being in fashion (by choice), a distinction that would be particularly important for black people after the end of the civil war and the ending of slavery. Her most poignant point that I felt was that this understanding and emphasis on clothing is all the more important because black people haven’t always had control over how they were dressed and represented in media. So taking ownership over their image was something that felt like freedom in its own way. Regardless of the color of your skin, I think in our digital age and the rise of AI, I think anyone who can do a tiny bit of self reflection can empathize and understand with how much control over your image and reputation and work is security in it’s most pure form.
But what is Dandyism, you may ask? The opening panel of the exhibition that greets you defines a dandy as “someone who studies above everything else to dress elegantly and fashionably.” Sounds about right. (But also for me, who showed up in a full ballgown to this tour at the museum, because I was going to the ballet right after. Very impressed by the amount of people who quoted oscar wilde at me “You can never be overdressed or overeducated” because it was spot on and also one of my favorite quotes.) The twelve sections of the exhibit are loosley inspired by a 1934 Zora Neale Hurston essay, but I really appreciated the way the exhibit allowed Black designers to showcase how they told “stories about self and society inflected by race, gender, class, and sexuality. Throughout, dandyism is visualized as a vehicle of productive tension between being fashioned and fashioning the self.” Some of my favorites in pictures below.
THE RED CARPET
I think in the context of the exhibition, which of course no one except the press had seen by the time the red carpet was in full swing, it changes a bit of the red carpet meaning. Also the theme was “Tailored for you”, which I think a lot of commentators forgot. I personally would have loved to see a bit more color, because I think the concept of dandyism was more bright and colorful (like the 1940s zoot suits pictured above), but given the sort of “Eat The Rich” and “This feels like watching the hunger games” rehetoric on social media that has followed the Met Gala in the past, I think I understand why most played it safe. I am glad however that the narrative has shifted a bit this time to be more along the lines of “This is a fundraiser for the arts when the current administration is cutting funding to the arts, and claiming anything otherwise about the theme of the exhibition is a bit racist.” The armchair commentators who don’t understand fashion are making the most noise, but this is for the fashion super fans, you know? But then I also think there was some wariness about cultural appropriation which I do think is always worth considering when it comes to moments like these. Additionally, I’ve heard and seen some commentary about how 1) people wished there were more black designers represented which is totally valid, but also since these are all custom looks, if more did that I could see their studio being absolutely taxed to the breaking point, plus guys tables are expensive at this event lol. 2) some people have expressed dismay at some other non-black invitees playing ti safe, but I’m actually like, no I appreciate them giving the black stars on the carpet a moment to shine. Anyways Red carpet thoughts below!!
The Gentleman Dandies
Colman Domingo in Valentino (reportedly inspired by ALT); Lewis Hamilton in Wales Bonner; Pharrell gets an Honorary Mention because that is a pearl jacket - as in it’s see through but it’s so hard to see in the pictures. I saw this detail in social media, and I would have totally dismissed otherwise. Law Roach in Burberry was perfect. Burna Boy in Oswald Boateng is perfect too. Alton Mason in Boss was a showstopper. Andre 3000 with the piano on his back was fucking fantastic. Jeremy O. Harris with the Regency interpretation was my ABSOLUTE FAVE. Jordan Roth’s look was also perfect.
The Women on theme
Teyana Taylor in Ruth E. Carter. This is exactly what i wanted to see on this carpet. She wins best in theme in my opinion.. I loved Anna’s Louis Vuitton Look - i know she normally wears Chanel, but nice to see her in something else. Cardi B in Burberry - i didn’t even recognize her! but it was perfect. Same with Jodie Turner Smith in Burberry, if it’s giving a little Mr. Wonka, it still hit correctly. Zendaya in Louis Vuitton, I personally loved. Even with that weird twining moment with Anna Sawai in Dior (which to me was such a fascinating insight into the underbelly of the fashion world because you’re really telling me that NO ONE AT LVMH - WHEN LOUIS VUITTON WAS THE EVENT SPONSOR THOUGHT TO COMPARE NOTES?????) Doeechi was definitely on theme in Louis Vuitton too, but after that amazing Schiaparelli in Paris I wanted something that felt a little more special. It’s a great look, but it doesn’t land because I saw a photo of her from one of the pre-parties in a very similar look. Mindy Kaling’s Harbison Studio look was great too. Janelle Monae in Thom Brown was perfectly on theme, if only it didn’t remind me of that A Clockwork Orange cover/poster. Diana Ross was the Queen Hands down. And then Tracee Ellis Ross in Marc Jacobs was just as perfect too. Chanel had a great showing with Lupita Nyongo and Jennie .
Honorable Mentions
Charli XCX in Ann Demelemeester - it felt so her, while giving a nod to the theme. I will also give Chappell Roan a nod because of the pink suit. Monica Barbara in Dior, while not on theme really, we love seeing the 1947 New Look IRL. Also Sabrina Carpenter in Louis Vuitton, because I felt like the look was very her, while also respecting the theme without being appropriative. Demi Moore’s Thom Browne Dress shaped like a tie annoyed me at first, but it grew on me more and more. Jenna Ortega in Balmain was very Joan of Arc but I loved it. Gigi Hadid looked like an oscar statue in Miu Miu but again this is very her, and tailored to her, if not on theme it’s more the spirit of it. Rachel Brosnahan in Ralph (I think) with the purple and the backwards menswear tie really grew on me. Same with Hunter Schaefer in Prada. I personally heard a lot of people disappointed in Anne Hathway in Carolina Herrera, but I loved it, and was very much a direct tribute to ALT with the white shirt and beading, so it works for me.
Dishonorable Mentions
I hate to do this, because i don’t believe in trashing people, but I hated Hailey Bieber’s look. You know how I feel about her being called a fashion icon, but this was so lazy, and not for a black tie gala. This is what you wear to drinks on a friday night out with girlfriends. Barry Keoghan’s whole look was just confusing. And Joe Burrow in that ill fitting suit when the theme is TAILORED FOR YOU. And also everyone who was carrying big bags! ludicrously capacious bags on the red carpet! you wear a clutch or you hand it to one of the many PRs and assistants that are staffed on the carpet, okay?
XOXO
CASEY