The Collision of Fashion, Ethics, and Politics

Complicated thoughts after the display of fashion at the Inauguration yesterday.

I’m writing this the afternoon of the Inauguration, having not watched it for the first time since I was Seventeen during Obama’s first term. I’ve always had a an interest in political and diplomatic fashion - and while the idea of America as the Shining City on The Hill is long since tarnished, if not destroyed completely - and the stories it can tell. It’s something that comes up in conversations about Kate, The Princess of Wales, and was absolutely part of the conversation when the Duchess of Sussex was trying to make a go of it in the UK.

I think anyone reading this knows I’m not about to side with the current administration. There is literally nothing in this entire substack that should make you think otherwise. And as horrible as it is, I do have a sort of… fondness? Don’t come for me yet! Let me explain. After watching the January 6^th Insurrection unfold on TV and Then Inauguration in 2017 with mounting horror as to how a government that claims to be populist could have it’s first lady and First daughter in high end European designers. Don’t get me started on KellyAnne Conways “Revolutionary” Gucci Coat … that was $3600. But here’s where it changed my life forever. I sat down then, feeling distressed at what I had just watched unfold, and began to outline this little idea I had for a novel two years before… about a princess who fights back against Facism when it comes to her doorstep.

That is the novel I’m working on selling right now. So, you can see where the fondness comes from. My main character’s journey follows her quest to find herself in the midst of catastrophic loss, but Fashion plays a major role in it too, as a way for her to express herself and convey messages. Which brings me to today.

Last time around, most of the fashion industry had held firm, and if anyone affiliated with the administration was in an American brand (they were the ones going on about bringing jobs and money back to America after all). This time around does not seem to hold true at all. Two American Brands we’re putting in the Spotlight are Oscar de La Renta and Adam Lippes.

Starting with Oscar de La Renta: I saw the first pic of Usha Vance in a strapless black number on Sunday Night on the brands instagram page, and the clicked over to see Ivanka Trump’s camel coat. I was filled with a combination of rage and disbelief, that felt a little bit like betrayal. It’s been hard to combat mentally and emotionally speaking (as obvious as it was) tech’s swing to the right. I was not ready to see the fashion industry start to as well. I need to point out something here that I thought was obvious recently but is really one of those industry insider bits that you don’t know when you’ve been raised from baby intern in the industry. These brands really ultimately don’t have control over who can come in and buy their products (however much Hermes would like to pretend otherwise) and they are a business after all. But let’s be clear, these are likely all custom pieces which are done with the full blessing and knowledge of the brand and designers. It’s something that’s hard to fathom when the heads of design are an asian woman and a gay man. But the fact that these are bring posted on the brands official page means it’s been a coordinated effort. This was planned and executed months ago. As for Adam Lippes designing Melania’s dress - he’s what I would call a contemporary brand. I’ve known about it for years - but other talents came along who did what he was doing better. He used to do presentations in his amazing Washington Square North Townhouse. I don’t have much to say, because I’ve met all of these designers in person. Two of them are gay men, and one if a woman. Amy Odell of Back Row covers this industry wide potential shift to the right much better than I can, but please read her piece here.

I find it an acute betrayal of what was supposed to be a space that championed women, by supporting people who are complicit in a regime that will strip rights from those they are trying to sell their clothes to. But hey. Money wins again.

Halfway through writing this I get this text in a group chat.

And then I wandered upstairs and quickly pulled all the Oscar out of my closet. Luckily, there wasn’t much. I’m a Carolina girl, after all. But as I stared at it, this idea of a boycott is more complicated. There was a gown from the new collection I had pulled aside to wear to a gala in march. Well. Here’s an excellent point to put my money where my mouth is, now? But it’s not simple. Some of my Oscar belonged to my mom so I can’t give that up, so it’s going to the archive for now. Do I sell the rest of what I have? Do I cancel preorders I’ve made on upcoming seasons? What about any other interactions? I’ll be honest, I haven’t made any decisions yet. I’m afraid to. But I’m also afraid not to. As Amy wrote in the piece I linked above, people threatened to boycott Ralph Lauren back in 2017 when they dressed Melania for the inauguration. It’s done nothing for sales. I don’t feel good about this. But I also don’t know what this plays out like.

I’ll be honest with you that the tone of this changed as I found myself getting more disturbed by this as the day went on yesterday. Again, Ivanka was in Dior and the portrait in her Audrey Hepburn inspired Givenchy gown… I supposed we should have expected when Alexandre Arnault was at the trump rally at Madison Square Garden (First reported by Lauren Sherman at Puck News). The LVMH contingent was there - so is their whole portfolio off the table now? It’s a complicated question. And something that requires a lot more thought, to put your money where your mouth is. But First of all. Dior. Did anyone watch the New Look? About Monsieur Dior? And his whole chapter with the bloody resistance in WWII (apparently I’m swearing in British now.)????? He’d be rolling in his grave right now. You know who is also cursing from her grave? Audrey Hepburn. I was so baffled by Vogue’s decision to post this. Anna Wintour has never made a secret of her politics - so this decision is beyond confusing to me. Last time, the entire industry stood up and said they would not work with these people. Vogue magazine in particular is a magazine for Women’s and anyone else who cares about Fashion - is not an empty headed idiot. You can be interested in Fashion and also be interested in more erudite topics. Or not. But you cannot only cater to the surface level. The magazine that championed Lee Miller’s work as a WWII War Correspondent… suddenly seems to be stumping for something else, Eva Braun 2.0 maybe.

This isn’t a new concept, of course. But the point is that fashion is always able to send a message. It can be a message in diplomacy. It’s why we see members of the royal family patronizing British brands - the eye balls help boost sales and create brand recognition. When they go on those big royal tours it’s seen as a gesture of goodwill to promote a local brand. Former First Lady Jill Biden wearing Schiaparelli (Designed by Daniel Roseberry, an American,) during a French State Visit is a good example of this in practice. So, the first time around, There was never really any attempt (her stylist Herve Pierre, will insist it was because the industry said no) for Melania to wear American. So she wore Dolce and whatever other European designers, and that insane “I don’t really care do U?” Zara Jacket. This time around, there seems to be people willing to play ball. I would ask my fashion industry friends who are reading this to stay strong to the beliefs you hold, and not cave to make a buck. But I also don’t know how long this can hold. I don’t end this on a hopeful note, but I also am not filled with the abject rage I’ve had for the last few days. Clothes have meaning, particularly in the circles of diplomacy, but what does that mean when profit above all else? It’s something that will be weighing on me as we continue on in the administration, and as the fashion weeks come up in February, and my participation in them as well as my normal fashion adjacent life. There will be a lot of changes and a lot of updates are my best guess as to what’s next.

XOXO,

Casey